Why Face Shape Matters More With a Buzz Cut
Most haircuts balance a face with volume, length or a fringe. A buzz cut removes all of that, so your face's outline and your head's shape are on show. That's great for some shapes and less forgiving for others, which is why a quick check before you pick up the clippers is worth it.
Face Shape by Face Shape
Oval: the ideal buzz cut face; balanced proportions look good with nothing around them. Square: excellent; a buzz cut shows off a strong jaw. Oblong: works, though a very short buzz can emphasise length; keep a slightly longer guard on top. Triangle: fine, but a short beard on the sides helps keep the jaw from dominating.
Round: can work, but a buzz cut emphasises roundness; add a beard that's longer at the chin. Heart: a buzz cut shows the wide forehead; a fuller beard balances the narrow chin. Diamond: it emphasises wide cheekbones; a beard helps here too. Not sure which you are? The free face scan in Ollie Stylist measures it in your browser.
Buzz Cut Guard Numbers
Clipper guards are numbered by length, in eighths of an inch: number 1 is about 3 mm (1/8 inch), 2 about 6 mm (1/4 inch), 3 about 10 mm (3/8 inch) and 4 about 13 mm (1/2 inch). With no guard, clippers leave well under 2 mm.
For a first buzz cut, start with a 3 or 4; you can always go shorter. A number 2 or 3 suits most people. Very short (0 or 1) shows the scalp and every bump.
Get new guides by email
Types of Buzz Cut
Induction cut: the shortest, one very short length all over. Butch cut: a slightly longer even length, around a 2 to 4 guard. Buzz cut with a fade: a buzzed top with the sides faded shorter, sharper and more modern. Crew cut: technically not a buzz, but close: the top is left a little longer.
Head Shape and Other Checks
Feel your head for bumps, dents or a flat back; a slightly longer guard hides these. Scars and birthmarks will show. If you're thinning, a buzz cut makes hair loss much less obvious; see balding haircuts. Wear sunscreen on a freshly buzzed scalp.
Not ready to commit? Ollie Pro can show a buzz cut on your own photo first.